Travels with Dick and Karen

London, Part 7

Main Museums (most visited first):

Victoria & Albert Museum
(arts and crafts through time)

Natural History Museum
(geology, biology)

Science Museum
(modern technology)

British Museum
(archeology)

london

Victoria and Albert Museum:

(search its collections yourself)

There is the usual display of Greek and Roman artifacts carted off wholesale, similar to the Louvre and the British Museum, but fewer. In part this is due to the collecting goals of the various museums. Originally the "Museum of Manufactures", the V&A is more concerned with the processes and evolution of creating art and design, rather than mere acquisition. Mileposts along the way, instead of grabbing the entire highway.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Hence there are the Cast Courts instead of originals. Two rooms full of reproductions of famous pieces from all over Europe so that British artists could learn from the masters without leaving home.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
A mezzanine spans the wall between the two Cast rooms. From up here the head of Michaelangelo's David seems a little large. Michaelangelo exaggerated it so when viewed from the ground it looks in proper proportion (previous photo). Victoria & Albert Museum
The copy of Trajan's Column is presented in two pieces to fit under the roof Victoria & Albert Museum
Dick can't help but wonder where the dusty attic is that still holds all of the molds that went into making these copies..  You can tell they are reproductions but that's not the point
Most are fragile plaster instead of marble and you can see the seams. However, you have many masterpieces from all over Europe gathered together in just 2 rooms. There were often artists sitting sketching when we were there. Victoria & Albert Museum

They also allow the student to travel in time: This is a cast of a pulpit which was broken up and the pieces used in other places. The cast was well-researched and the pieces reassembled to present the pulpit in its original form.

Victoria & Albert Museum

You can tell they are reproductions but that's not the point

Not all of the displayed pieces were plaster...
these copper doors were created by coating intermediate plaster casts.

You can tell they are reproductions but that's not the point

You can tell they are reproductions but that's not the point

Beyond the cast courts there are groupings of artistic works by region:

Europe

You can tell they are reproductions but that's not the point

Victoria & Albert Museum
Karen loves these Palissy-ware pieces. Victoria & Albert Museum
One wonders if this spinning wheel (or "distaff") was ever really used Victoria & Albert Museum
Would you use this to drink beer? Victoria & Albert Museum

We saw so many ornate virginals. This one is decorated with thousands of bits of glass.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
Jug decorated with a little hop-vine man Victoria & Albert Museum

Many of the rooms were very dim to avoid further fading the cloth (and of course they didn't want you to use flash).

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum

And other rooms were dim to show off the stained glass

Victoria & Albert Museum
This was made for the Great Exhibition of 1851 Victoria & Albert Museum
And of course there was the occasional over-the-top gaudy room Victoria & Albert Museum

The Middle East:

For weeks we could only peer into this room from above while the display was being put together. But it opened just before we left town.

Victoria & Albert Museum
There were lots of wonderful geometric designs throughout the exhibit. Victoria & Albert Museum
Woven works and the tools used to create them.  Victoria & Albert Museum
An ornate fireplace Victoria & Albert Museum
Wouldn't a drink poured from something this elegant just taste better? Victoria & Albert Museum
Asia: Japan, China and Korea Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum

This incense burner was made for the Great Exhibition of 1851.

It was an Asian idea of what would impress Europeans. It still does.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Twelve Inrõ representing the months of a year... elegantly fashioned small containers Japanese men hung from their kimono's obi (belt), in lieu of pockets. 


Victoria & Albert Museum
The glaze on this is a masterwork Victoria & Albert Museum
Some of the more modern items were impressive: this python purse is cloisonné, not snakeskin Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
...detail of the above.
As the description wrote, each individual sugar-cube-sized block is individually wrapped in paper. It reminds Dick of looking at a surface of lava... gift-wrapped.
The entire work is over 5 feet tall and 4 feet wide. The photos don't do it justice at all.  
Victoria & Albert Museum
We found many exciting displays upstairs where they were grouped by medium with a discussion of the evolution and exchange of techniques all across the world.
The stairs weren't too shabby, either.
Victoria & Albert Museum

Such as "Glass"

There's a mirror on the back wall so it isn't really quite so long as it appears, but it's still very impressive. We spent several hours in just this one room.

Notice the pattern of light on the upper balusters... we'll get back to that

Victoria & Albert Museum
It showed the evolution of glass blowing across time and place Victoria & Albert Museum
as you get to newer work it gets colorful Victoria & Albert Museum
(Karen struggled to select only a few photos from the 130 we took in this room alone) Victoria & Albert Museum
There were drawers and drawers and drawers full of smaller work Victoria & Albert Museum
This is a close-up of the piece at the top rear of the preceding photo Victoria & Albert Museum
They even had drawers full of broken pieces.
Dick spent an embarassing amount of time trying to locate the description of the center piece in the room's computer terminals' access to the V&A's database.
Victoria & Albert Museum
There were so many wonderful pieces: we both liked this mouse Victoria & Albert Museum

And the illusion of depth in this bowl.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
The glass railing up the stairs and along the mezzanine was a delight. Each post is a column of stacked square pieces of clear glass. But some of the squares were twisted in the stack to give an overall wave along the columns. Victoria & Albert Museum
Up on the mezzanine were cases and cases packed with the "stored" glass. Victoria & Albert Museum

The next room was full of modern work. These are just a few of the fine works displayed.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum

Toots Zynsky's Dondolante Serena

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum

Then there are the rooms of ceramics.

(that entire cabinet is a warren of drawers)

Victoria & Albert Museum

There's a vary well thought out educational display in the center of the first room

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
With many examples of choices in construction and materials. With this background you gain much more understanding of what you are looking at in the collection. Here it explains the diferent kinds of clay bases (stoneware, porcelain, fritware, etc.) Victoria & Albert Museum
... various grades of porcelain  Victoria & Albert Museum

Another display was on glazes and formulas.

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
A glaze test plate from a British factory Victoria & Albert Museum
Even a famous potter's workshop was transfered to the museum intact (and included a video interview from when she was still working). Victoria & Albert Museum

The collection started with some of the earliest ceramics (well ... this one is really powdered quartz, not clay, but faience is generally considered part of "ceramics" rather than "glass")

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum
(It does take a team of horses to drag Dick away from early Chinese ceramic horses)
Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
The displays and explanations traced the influences of China, Turkey, Japan on Europe and vice versa. Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Yes, ceramic peapods. Victoria & Albert Museum
And dragons Victoria & Albert Museum
All the way up through more modern times (see any of your grandmother's china here?) Victoria & Albert Museum

There was the room of current artwork:

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum

(Ooooo! )

Victoria & Albert Museum

Victoria & Albert Museum
Then there are the rooms of stored artifacts Victoria & Albert Museum
... rooms of them. Victoria & Albert Museum

The furniture exhibit was the most polished.

Victoria & Albert Museum
Tools and descriptions of techniques Victoria & Albert Museum
Plus examples Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum

Plus computer screens giving details of each piece:

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Victoria & Albert Museum
  Victoria & Albert Museum
Often with cut-away examples to reveal the hidden jointery Victoria & Albert Museum

Even simple paint can make a great piece, although I'm not sure I'd want to have it in our bedroom (living room maybe, given our housekeeping).

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Victoria & Albert Museum
Then there were the more modern pieces frozen in transition: This set of drawers pulls sideways to become a table Victoria & Albert Museum
"George" combines computer and traditional methods Victoria & Albert Museum
Not all furniture involves wood.
This flexible PVC "Bookworm" can be curled into any shape that catches your fancy... and it's still commercially available.
(Searching the database revealed that its longer steel cousin "This Mortal Coil" is held in the V&A's storage.)
Victoria & Albert Museum
"One Shot" Stools
3-D Printing hits the V&A ... these nylon stools were each "printed" fully assembled. Layers of Nylon powder were heated by a laser in a sintering process, melting where struck. The flexible joints and pivots were created by leaving tiny gaps between the adjacent melted areas. The process leaves a rough matt texture on the outside where you can see the individual layers (if you squint at the real object).
Victoria & Albert Museum
The Fractal Table
Another 3-D printed table, with some differences: It's modeled after the fractal structure of a "Dragon Tree" (Dracaena). Notice the branching of the legs and the shadows on the ground from the light passing through its structure.
Unlike the melted-powder of the above stool, this table was formed by having a laser UV-cure the top skin of a pool of liquid resin ... so each layer is only 0.1mm (1/250th of an inch) thick. Then the supporting structure of the printer dropped 0.1mm and the next layer was formed. Repeat. It took over 7 days to print the table. The V&A has a video of the process.
Victoria & Albert Museum
Around the corner and down the stairs to Ironwork...  Victoria & Albert Museum
Grillwork, railings, merchants' hanging signs...
Wrought iron, cast iron ... 
Victoria & Albert Museum
... and lock mechanisms, for both their external appearance and internal wizardry.  Victoria & Albert Museum
The Hereford Choir Screen
Made in 1862, it was displayed at the Great Exhibition before being installed in Hereford Cathedral a year later. When it was remonved from there it eventually wound up at the V&A needing thousands of hours of restoration work. It is now a showpiece of what can be done in metalwork.
Victoria & Albert Museum
Metalwork includes biscuit tins, doesn't it?
"Bluebird" (1911) 
Victoria & Albert Museum

Modern designs are represented

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Victoria & Albert Museum

There was a special exhibit of modern silverwork:

Karen liked the lichen in this piece is by Abigail Brown

Victoria & Albert Museum
Victoria & Albert Museum Victoria & Albert Museum
No, we haven't jumped to the Natural History Museum quite yet: This costume comes from the play "Rhinocerous" and was part of a multi-media Theatre Arts display. Victoria & Albert Museum

Lots of gorgeous costumes, theatre sets, etc. Once more, the lighting was dim to avoid fading the colors, so most of our photos are blurry. Well worth seeing in person.

But now the curtain drops, the house lights come up ... and we head across Exhibition Road to ...

Victoria & Albert Museum

The Natural History Museum:

We entered the side door because we were headed for geology first (and the lines were long at the front door)

Natural History Museum
We've always had a fondness for stegasaurus
"Sophie" is the most complete stegasaurus fossil ever found, missing only its left forelag, base of the tail and a few small bones. It took 18 months to extract from the ground in Wyoming.
The museum provided images showing the cast versus original specimen:

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
Interesting geology samples surrounded Sophie Natural History Museum
and fossils (a mass ammonite grave) Natural History Museum
Then we go up through an artistic molten earth... Natural History Museum
To lots of samples and displays of how the ground under your feet came to be.
These are different forms of lava.
Natural History Museum

We didn't know coal could do that

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
Lots of pretty gems and minerals... Natural History Museum
...with less than optimal lighting.
Sometimes dramatic, yes, but other times interesting specimens were in pools of shadow
Natural History Museum
Even the table in the "mens' waiting room" (restroom alcove) was elegant stone. Natural History Museum

Now we switch to the intersection of biology and geology: fossils. The costumed person is a docent pretending to be Mary Anning, one of the first fossil hunters
Two entire walls of Ichthyosaurs and Pliosaurs.

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
Giant Sloths (on the right) may have persisted in South America into modern times. Natural History Museum

School kids gather in the great hall (the front door opens into this space) to plan their expedition. In the main space they're greeted by Dippy the Diplodocus.

 

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
A cast of a woolly rhinoceros mummy found in a tar pit in Poland Natural History Museum
And one of our favorite reptiles pre-bird Natural History Museum
Ancient reptiles had bones in their eyes. Natural History Museum
There was a separate dinosaur exhibit with many skeletons above visitors, heads. Natural History Museum
Culminating in an animated T Rex. Natural History Museum

The comparative anatomy of fellow hominins

Natural History Museum

 

Natural History Museum
  Natural History Museum
And a possible family tree Natural History Museum
From extinct we move to those not yet so. Natural History Museum
All the alcoves off the main room are also full of models and skeletons of mammals, mostly organized by family. Natural History Museum

A blue whale skeleton is being prepped to replace "Dippy", the dinosaur in the main hall. Dippy will step outside to stand in the garden.

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum

Next we explored marine creatures.
Karen wants to do something like this coral in glass.

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
The deep ocean has its own strange collection of beasties.  Natural History Museum
And then there are those who are able to deal with both land and water Natural History Museum
If you're going to live in both worlds, it helps to be an amphibian.
The Japanese Giant Salamander is the largest currently living. 
Natural History Museum
Not all mammals are furry. Natural History Museum

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Waaay back on our "Canal to Soho" page, we dropped in on a gallery that had a photographic exhibit of Leopold and Rudolf Blaschka's glass models of invertebrates . Here is one of the original glass models (plus many other notable artifacts like a dodo skeleton and a 1st edition of Darwin’s Origin of the Species. Again in very dim light).

 

Natural History Museum

The really important (and the classic bottled-in-formaldehyde) stuff is housed in the new wing. The "cocoon" gives a glimpse Natural History Museum
An elevator to the top leads to the beginning of a long ramp that spirals down through the cocoon... Natural History Museum
... past stored manuscripts, ships' logs and herbarium pressings ... Natural History Museum

... a tiny fraction of the 23 million bottled specimens, most stored in refrigerated light-controlled conditions.

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
Yon can even see into the labs. (but no flash allowed) Natural History Museum
Then there was a fine presentation on fieldwork. These bugs were collected by Darwin on the voyage of the Beagle. We enjoyed the real videos made by biologists in situ with all the bugs and bites and sweat and things that can go wrong but also can go right. Natural History Museum
Out behind the cocoon-containing new wing of the building... Natural History Museum

... Is the wildlife garden with a slab of limestone with dino footprints

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum
A hive Natural History Museum

And examples of several different British biomes

Natural History Museum

Natural History Museum

A grand old purpose-built space (Karen pointing out what look like roosting Pterosaurs among the animal sculptures)

... but now we leave the Natural History museum and walk just behind it on Exhibition Road to find ...

Natural History Museum

The Science Museum ...

whose main floor is mostly VERY large technology

Science Museum

Featuring the real prototypes of famous inventions

Science Museum

Science Museum
london  Science Museum
This isn't a desktop model.... and it spins into action roughly every hour
(but driven by an electric motor, not by steam)
Science Museum

Remember hearing that the idea for computer cards came from looms?
(OK, ok... have you even heard of "computer cards"?)

Mr. Jaquard's contribution ... a card reader controlling the sequencing of the heddles attached to an 1825 hand loom .

Science Museum
This loom ran scheduled demonstrations Science Museum
James Watt's workshop (not a model) Science Museum
(a model)
Science Museum
Science Museum
Science Museum
In the mills of Britain and the US, steam (or water) would power "line shafts" that ran along ceiling for the length of the room. Pulleys and belts would bring power down to the individual work stations or looms.
This model had delightfully detailed (and functional) lathes, milling machines, presses and punches ... each about the size of a salt shaker.
Science Museum
Babbage's 1832 proof-of-concept Difference Engine ... the first "computer".
Although this example was a "fixed program" machine, Babbage did envision models which had changeable operations dictated by punched cards.
London
Babbage's original design was not finished in his lifetime (due to a combination of politics, economics and Babbage's "management style"). For over 150 years it was claimed that it was beyond that technology's capabilities to build. Just recently people took his designs and did complete it ... and it works!
Here's the result ... fresh polynomials delivered on demand.
Science Museum

Looking forward, this is a prototype of a clock which is planned to run accurately for thousands of years

Science Museum

Science Museum
The next section was space exploration Science Museum
The 18th century rocketry soldier juxtaposed with the 20th century Sputnik satellite and the 21st century cell phone. Science Museum

Next came "Making the Modern World" ... Around the periphery is a decade by decade exploration of technology for food, health, transportation, toys, games, ...

Science Museum
... housewares...  Science Museum
Recent medical and animal husbandry technology included Dolly the famous cloned sheep Science Museum
In the basement, along with the children-only section, there was a side by side evolution of things like sewing machines, ovens, radios Science Museum
toilets etc. Science Museum
Upstairs had a presentation on why you might be craving something. The section of teens telling about their favorite junk food and why they shouldn't crave it was poignant. Science Museum

There was also a small materials science section: see the 8 hemispherical lumps of glass? All the same chemical composition, just heated to increasingly high maximum tempeatures to "develop" the ruby color due to colloidal gold.

Science Museum

Science Museum

This sculpture was made from single sheets of "everything anything can be made with" by the Thomas Heatherwick studio.

Science Museum

Science Museum
On our last day in London we dropped in again to visit the Science Museum's clockmaker's guild's exhibit Science Museum

Yes, by this point we were feeling the weight of time.

But ... so what? Let's skip back a couple of weeks and visit...

Science Museum

The British Museum

For many people, the British Museum is the museum worth visiting.
We had "hit it" back in 1993, so this time it didn't get as much attention from us. Mainly we revisited "old friends" and to see what's (relatively) new.

In short: a lot has changed in 23 years...

To begin with, they roofed over the central grassy courtyard and turned it into the gift shops, ticket and information booth space...

British Museum

The first "regular" section was an introduction to the different collections and a bit about each of the collectors.

British Museum
With highlights British Museum

British Museum

more here


British Museum
British Museum British Museum
British Museum

British MuseumBritish Museum

The next section held the massive statues we remembered from our trip 20 (very) odd years ago. British Museum
This Assyrian "Lamassu" from Nimrud harkens back to roughly 850 BC, predating the similar Mesopotamian statues in the Louvre by more than 100 years.
Both of them shared the style of having five legs... the pair seen from the front, but the side view shows the further foreleg in a half-way back stride (somewhat hidden by the glare).
British Museum
British Museum British Museum
British Museum British Museum
They had a large excavation here British Museum

British Museum

Find it here

 

 

British Museum

British Museum British Museum

And then we got to Egypt:

British Museum

British Museum

Chunks of wall ... one of many friezes collected over the centuries..

British Museum
Lots and lots of mummy cases British Museum

And the Rosetta Stone (right) and a copy we could touch (left) in another room.
Definitely two of Dick's "old friends" in the collection.

British Museum

British Museum
This modern looking scarab is probably from the 4th century British Museum

Then we get to the frieze from the Parthenon ... the famous Elgin Marbles.
This is one of Selene's horses, tired from dragging the moon across the sky.

london

British Museum
The Nereid Monument
British Museum
British Museum

There are also lots of more modern artifacts: these are the few that the photos came out well and still looked interesting

There were many orreys...

British Museum

... glass may show up a few times... (this one's Roman) 

British Museum

... and tiles ... from Shropshire in the late 1800s 

British Museum
Swedish Cameo Glass from about 1900 ... the design is cut into colored layers  British Museum

Mori Junko's hand-forged steel Ring of Small Petals (2014)
Formed from thousands of hand-cut nails.

British Museum

Even a piece from our neck of the woods, er, 'hood

British Museum

British Museum

Plus this archeological way of looking at modern life: Cradle to Grave
... the fabric on the left is what a typical British woman takes as medications throughout her life, the fabric on the right is a man's. 14,000 pills ... each.

British Museum
British Museum

British Museum

In other sections we got into Asia

British Museum

British Museum
An interesting display of comparative scripts (with examples) British Museum

 

 

And lots of dragons. In fact all the rest of these are dragons of some sort, parked here so Karen can find them again.

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British Museum

 

British Museum

British Museum
Hundreds of tiny artistic bottles (not all glass) 
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British Museum
Carved 'Imperial Ivory', with five dragons amidst clouds
Jiaqing mark, 1796-1820. 
British Museum
Porcelain, double-gourd shape with underglaze cobalt blue and iron-red overglaze enamel decorated with dragons and bats
Qianlong mark, 1170-95 
British Museum
Tiny filagree dragons British Museum
Conch-shell trumpet made of shell, gilt copper alloy, copper and semi-precious stones
Tibet, 18th-19th century AD
Conch trumpets are part of the monastic orchestra. Some are decorated with textile streamers, while others, such as this example, are elongated to allow for stylised metal pennants to be attached to them.
OA 1992.12-14.16 
British Museum

Longquan green-glazed wares
Yuan dynasty
AD 1279-1368 

Flask with a dragon among clouds
Stoneware with applied decoration and green glaze
PDF 242

British Museum
British Museum British Museum
Displaying the two jugs, each almost the inverse color pattern of the other was very effective. British Museum
  British Museum
Back of an ancient Chinese mirror British Museum

(This is the set Karen wanted to take home)

British Museum

British Museum

To Iceland

1: Local area 2: Thames river trip 3: To the Tower 4: Canal to Soho 5: Further afield by rail: Reading, Kew
6: Chelsea Gardens
7: More Museum To Iceland  

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all text and images copyright Karen and Dick Seymour 2016,
and may not be reproduced without written permission

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