Travels with Dick and Karen

South Africa

Part 4
Animals and Mountains:
Addo to Kruger
via the Drakensbergs

South Africa map -- Animal route
Just north of Port Elizabeth is Addo Elephant Park which the guide books all raved about. Soon after entering the park we saw lots of evidence of elephants, such as these: South Africa part 4

and this:

South Africa part 4

But the first few animals we saw were antelopes
(hmmm... narrow face with dark central blaze, spiral horns, no patterns on flanks... red hartebeest)

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and a (probably) black-headed heron. South Africa part 4

Then hurrah! We saw some elephants.

Yes, those are dunes in the background.

South Africa part 4
And more antelopes South Africa part 4
And a few more elephants and several warthogs grazing. South Africa part 4

When a jackel showed up, the warthogs put their tails up and ran.

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  South Africa part 4

Animals seemed used to cars. Finding animals crossing the road was becoming a more frequent occurance.

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They usually carried on normal behavior if we didn't stop too long. Here's how warthogs bend down to graze. South Africa part 4
But this tortise was moving out of the way as fast as he could. Really. South Africa part 4
Then we saw more elephants South Africa part 4
And more elephants South Africa part 4

And more

... which lead to the question of "Do we wait for 100 elephants to all decide to cross the road, or do we weave our way carefully and non-aggressively through them?"(*)
(not for the first time, Karen wondered about the advisibility of having a red target, er, van)

(*): ex-Bostonian's answer: weave.

South Africa part 4
And even more (note the warthogs in the front right) South Africa part 4
Even elephant bathing! South Africa part 4
Here's the vehicle people ride for the guided tours. You can also just drive around yourself during the day but cars aren't allowed on the roads after dark. So we took 2 night tours: one in Mountain Zebra National Park and one in Kruger National Park (stories below). South Africa part 4
A reminder of why you don't get out of your car. South Africa part 4
Another tortise crosses the road South Africa part 4
Very different markings from the previous one we saw South Africa part 4
And then a snake (probably a poisonous puff adder) crossed in front of us. South Africa part 4
Ibis always seem to come in pairs South Africa part 4
A pale-chanting goshawk South Africa part 4
Greater Kudu  South Africa part 4

Even a display of thatching

Karen's quite charmed by thatching... especially when it's on large buildings.

South Africa part 4
Here's what it looks like when finished (and aged a bit). South Africa part 4
Addo's visitor center had a very nice skull and horn display. South Africa part 4
But the rhino skull had been removed (note empty space with tag)
The iridescent splendid starling makes me want to make an African glass table! South Africa part 4
And we finally were able to photograph the ever-present pied crow on the wing South Africa part 4

And one of the parking lot attendants (a Cape White-eye)

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lots of other birds as well South Africa part 4
and more South Africa part 4

We decided not to get out.

The pieces of paper we were handed, or required to sign, as we entered the various parks all had a paragraph which boiled down to "We know we're entering an area full of dangers, and we won't sue the Parks Department if we're eaten or otherwise damaged."

South Africa part 4
Lots of raptors soaring-- this happened to land where we could get a picture South Africa part 4
Zebras travel in families South Africa part 4
As do warthogs South Africa part 4
Female greater kudu  South Africa part 4
The occational plant display had tags... South Africa part 4
This the plant the locals used to keep the lions out of their kraals (livestock pens) South Africa part 4
The Addo Park camps were full, but we found a nice private camp just outside the park. The "Harvest Home Campground" was a fascinating mix of kitsch and ex-orchard (those really are avacado trees justifying the site's name). Bunny rabbits were hopping all over the place. South Africa part 4
In the morning we headed further inland and northwest for Camdeboo National Park.
Let's see... two lanes, broad shoulders... yup, 120 kph (70 mph) posted limit.
South Africa part 4
The 3 parts of the Camdeboo park surround Graff-Reinet, a small town with a photogenic church at its heart. South Africa part 4
Our first stop was the Valley of Desolation National Monument. South Africa part 4
A 2000-foot 1st gear climb in the VW brought us to this view back towards Graff-Reinet, which didn't look very desolate... South Africa part 4
...then we turned around.  South Africa part 4
Compare to the billboard shown earlier.  South Africa part 4
Even here there were plants in bloom, mostly aloes and other succulents. South Africa part 4
Dropping back down to the highway, the second part of the park was the game viewing area spread out to the north and east of a man-made lake. South Africa part 4
But by this time it was hot mid-day and they were probably lying down in the shade. South Africa part 4
Interesting landscapes South Africa part 4
but no animals South Africa part 4
Even in the heat of the afternoon, it was a fascinating exploration.  South Africa part 4
We finally saw a few springboks South Africa part 4
and a few more, with thorns. South Africa part 4
and some vervet monkeys South Africa part 4
We were searching for Cape Buffalo, but only found them on the roadsigns reminding us to be aware of our surroundings. The afore-mentioned fine print. South Africa part 4
Steenbok  South Africa part 4
Heron South Africa part 4
Nesting ostrich. A guide said the males were usually on the nest at night so they were black and the females by day so they were brown. South Africa part 4
Numerous footprints showed that animals had been here.  South Africa part 4
This heron paraded nicely as we wondered what might be around us in the reeds that we couldn't see. South Africa part 4
As we got into into more open areas we found red hartebeests grazing and chewing their cud.  South Africa part 4
Leaving Camdeboo and heading eastward, we saw these alien invaders (agave flower stalks) South Africa part 4
Approaching the town of Cradock, we turned off the highway and drove into the Mountain Zebra National Park. Our campsite with its caged new trees. South Africa part 4
That evening we took the opportunity to try a guided night drive through the Park -- none of the photos turned out well but we saw lots of small nocturnal animals (jackals, caracals, bat-eared foxes, duiker, bats). Dick was surprised by the number of antelope that were still up and moving around. They were so common that eventually the guide didn't even slow down as the guests spotted and called out "kudu" in bored voices. South Africa part 4
In the morning, driving ourselves, we saw larger beasts. A hartebeest (perhaps the kudu were finally catching some shut-eye?) South Africa part 4
And more South Africa part 4
and some two legged grazers South Africa part 4
After following a winding river, the path climbed tortuously 2300 feet to a high plateau.   South Africa part 4
...white knuckles...  South Africa part 4
And evidence of anteaters South Africa part 4
The namesake Mountain Zebras of the park South Africa part 4
Distant Black Wildebeests  South Africa part 4
These zebras seemed to be posing there to be photogenic. South Africa part 4
Springbok South Africa part 4
While scanning an area like this with binoculars, we spotted a lioness disappearing into a distant small stand of trees. Far too far away to photograph, it would prove to be the only lion we saw in South Africa.  South Africa part 4
Eland  South Africa part 4
Female kudu  South Africa part 4
A yellow mongoose appeared just as we were leaving. We saw many mongeese on the trip, usually as low streaks crossing the road, but this was the only one sitting still long enough to get a picture. Shortly after this it turned attentioon back to the hole it was digging. South Africa part 4
More alien invaders: this time Opuntia cactus (prickly pear) on the fringes of the fields South Africa part 4
Central South Africa is an eroded landscape, with flat-topped hills where some of the sandstone proved a bit more resistant to weathering. From here the land climbs in a series of plateaus like giant steps to the higher ground in the east, then drops off at the Drakensburgs and still lower to get down to Kruger.. South Africa part 4
We headed north from Mtn Zebra towards Bloemfontein on our way to the Drakensbergs. Half-way there lies Gariep Dam on the Orange (Gariep) River. It has cabins and a campground on the lake. Our camp on the lake... yes, those are whitecaps. South Africa part 4
Here's the trick... the slower vehicles drive in the breakdown (and hopeful hitchhiker) lane. Everybody else passes them. Sometimes there are passers passing the slow passers. Repeat in the oncoming direction. Add a 120 kph speed limit. Convince your reflexes to operate properly for the "wrong" side of the road.
Relax, you're on holiday!
South Africa part 4

From Bloemfontein we turned east towards Lesotho and the Drakensburgs

Oh... another note of "things seen along the way":
See the Stop sign? Quite frequently intersecting roads would have people trying to hitchhike or flag down the periodic local busses (BazBus) or pickups-cum-taxis. Some people would be waving 10 or 20 Rand notes ($1 and $2) to improve their luck. But the person who made this section of the road memorable was waving an entire, large, fish. Since we'd just passed a lake, we assumed it was freshly caught.

South Africa part 4
The Drakensburgs are that wall of mountains forming the horizon.  South Africa part 4
We didn't go into Lesotho, we arced along its northern border through increasingly scenic terrain.  South Africa part 4
We got to Golden Gate Highlands National Park at sunset, just in time to see the phenomenon for which it was named. South Africa part 4
Here it is the following morning. Dick usually feels like that in the morning before coffee, too. South Africa part 4
The surrounding area had a barren beauty South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
They were burning the fields South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
Pastures had interlopers.  South Africa part 4
Plane trees are what I assumed I would see throughout the interior but we only started seeing them here in the east. South Africa part 4
Further south along the escarpment is "the amphitheatre"
But the air was very hazy due to field burning ... to clear the stubble and create firebreaks around houses and settlements. South Africa part 4
Yes, I found a protea South Africa part 4
At the Royal Natal National Park's Mahai Campground folks went up on the hillside to watch the sun set. South Africa part 4
The next day was a holiday so there wasn't as much smoke in the air.
We took a short hike towards the base of the Ampitheatre.
South Africa part 4
Bottlebrush (?) flowers South Africa part 4
Another splendid starling South Africa part 4
The surrounding villages looked relatively prosperous. South Africa part 4
but you had to keep a sharp eye out for livestock South Africa part 4
We stopped for lunch at a roadside tribal gallery South Africa part 4
And were able to get a good photo of the underside of the thatching South Africa part 4
Lots of burned fields... South Africa part 4
and the afternoon got smokier as we went south, following the Drakensberg range. We even bypassed Cathedral Peak due to lack of visibility (and breathing). Instead we went further south to the Champagne Castle area. South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
We appreciated the signs but by the time we passed through, they had usually fixed the holes. It was the ones they hadn't gotten around to signing that were the problem. South Africa part 4
Approaching Monks Cowl, we turned into the Dragon Peaks Resort (and campground). They seemed to have a resident zebra... South Africa part 4
...and companion. It looked like a cross between a donkey and a zebra. South Africa part 4
The view of Champagne Castle from the campsite in the morning. Some of the peaks in the 150 mile-long Drakensberg range reach to over 11,000 feet. South Africa part 4
The day's clearer air inspired us to back-track and try for Cathedral Peak again. South Africa part 4
We stopped at the local weavers co-op, but they were not working the looms at the moment. Their very nice rugs were available though. South Africa part 4
We passed through several more villages South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
to get to Champagne Castle. South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
There were many San (used to be called bushmen) paintings in surrounding caves. Most needed advanced scheduling to visit so we saved that for next time. South Africa part 4
Large bug in parking lot wouldn't probably have paused long enough to get it's picture if it hadn't met a car first. South Africa part 4
We wandered a bit in the park and decided it was just too smokey. We decided to cut short our Drakensberg visit and head up to Kruger Natinonal Park. We'd planned to skip Kruger to avoid malaria, but local travelers said the chance of malaria was very slight as they had not yet had rain. South Africa part 4
More rural life. Here's a brick house under construction. Note satellite dish. South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
Here's the local bus terminal eqivalent. South Africa part 4
Thatching South Africa part 4
Stopping for lunch in Ermelo, we chanced upon the really bizzarre "Art Madness Cafe". Good food and friendly people too. South Africa part 4
We'd occasionally pass massive industrial installations. South Africa part 4
The landscape got drier as we went north South Africa part 4
Nearing the major city of Nelspruit, we pulled off to Nature's Gate Resort (and campground). An hour's drive from here brought us to Kruger National Park. South Africa part 4
The gate building at Kruger used the elephant skull as a table. South Africa part 4

Lots of birds and animals: In just 24 hours we saw the following and many more that didn't hold still or were too far away.

This clutch of female impala weren't in too much of a hurry.

South Africa part 4
Termite mound, taller than most we'd seen throughout the trip. South Africa part 4
Kudu  South Africa part 4
Giraffe  South Africa part 4
Kudu  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
Rhino  South Africa part 4
First you see the buzzard, then you see the heron, then you see the goose and the rhino ... South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
Ground hornbill South Africa part 4
elephant scar South Africa part 4
Birds' nests South Africa part 4
Impala  South Africa part 4
Yellow-billed hornbill  South Africa part 4
Karen had been wanting to see a buffalo the whole trip. We finally found one. South Africa part 4
Kudu  South Africa part 4
Vervet monkeys  South Africa part 4
Mattresses going somewhere (or just getting aired?) South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
trio of ground hornbills South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
  South Africa part 4
Buffalo checking us out.  South Africa part 4
Then the car dash lit up. Karen waiting for the tow truck on what was the hottest day of our trip (nearly 100F) South Africa part 4
The view wasn't devoid of life: note the communal spiders. But it was pretty bleak being stuck in a recently burned area. South Africa part 4
The tow driver added water and had us follow him back to camp. He did what he could but after a couple of hours it was obvious it wasn't repairable here. Luckily there was space for us to spend another night in this campground. South Africa part 4
Since we weren't driving out to see them, the wildlife helpfully came into the camp. South Africa part 4
There was space on the evening's night drive so we decided to take it. It started with a lovely sunset South Africa part 4
Our night photos came out slightly better this time. Some of the blurs can even be identified: cameleon South Africa part 4
owl South Africa part 4
hyena South Africa part 4
leopard (it helped to have been there). South Africa part 4
The rhinos didn't like the spotlights. Many of the animals didn't seem to care. On the whole, we didn't shine lights in the animals' eyes to avoid night-blinding them. South Africa part 4
and two more South Africa part 4
Lekker Camper took care of all the arrangements to get the van to a repair place in Nelspruit that could put in a radiator on a Saturday! It was loaded on a truck, and away we went. The next 2 hours were spent talking with the tow truck driver. Very interesting fellow. South Africa part 4
Silverton stayed late to get us running again. South Africa part 4
With a new radiator, we headed off towards Johannesburg. First we noticed that the speedometer and odometer weren't working. The drive cable had been yanked from its socket during the radiator repair.
We made it as far as Belfast's lake, about half-way to Joburg. We pulled into a fish camp to ask directions to the nearby campground. The puddle on the ground was the result of another part of the cooling system bursting at that moment. The entire system's complement of 15 liters disappeared into the ground very quickly.
South Africa part 4
But we were right in front of the private campsite of some very nice people who let us park there. And the site's owner was a mechanic who went home the next morning, got the part and fixed the van on site! South Africa part 4
So we made it to the Aero Guest Lodge, a motel within walking distance to the Johannesburg Airport. We arrived by mid-day on Sunday. We were to fly out on Monday so we decamped and lightly explored the local area. We didn't want to risk another breakdown. South Africa part 4
Weaver birds had built nests in the palm tree South Africa part 4
There was some very topical stained glass in one of the Lodge's outdoor seating areas. South Africa part 4
A sudden late afternoon shower became a hail storm. We were able to admire the hail from the warmth of our room. South Africa part 4
The next day we flew out. It was mostly clear but smokey after take-off South Africa part 4
Then these clouds rolled in and the remaining time over the continent didn't provide a glimpse of the ground. South Africa part 4
We bounced in Dubai again. South Africa part 4
Much to our surprise, we didn't retrace our "over Europe, over Greenland" path. Instead of turning west, we flew northeast... across Russia and out over the Aral Sea. And on northward to the north pole. South Africa part 4
The airplane's belly camera gave Dick a view, too.
The sea ice at the pole was broken, but not fully cleared away... yet.  
South Africa part 4
If the plane had veered "below" the pole, we would've passed from Oct 1st to Oct 2nd (as "local midnight" went by), and then back to Oct 1st as we crossed the international date line.
By veering "above" the pole, we stayed in Oct 1st for 33 hours.  
South Africa part 4
The familiar mountains of British Columbia, Canada, tell us we're almost home. South Africa part 4

END: (back to Travel Index)

Cape Town
Namaqua
(Flowers and shores of the west coast)
Tree Tops and Surf
(east of Cape Town to Port Elizabeth)

Animals and Mountains
(Addo to Kruger and the Drakensbergs)

 


all text and images copyright Karen and Dick Seymour 2013,
and may not be reproduced without written permission

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